I forgot to mention the state of the mesa tops at the park!

Any indication? Burned. There have been a number of forest fires in the park in recent years, and all were the result of lightning. The Ranger told us that they were in the midst of a 9 year drought, and it should have been the monsoon season while we were there in July. I will remember that, should we ever return. I felt sort of guilty being so happy that there weren’t monsoon rains while we were camping in a tent. How selfish of me, right?

We were told that it was a 23 year drought that finally drove out the Ancestral Puebloan in their day. In case you were wondering, that is.
After the Cliff Palace tour, we took a little break and then headed over to the Balcony House, which is another guided tour site. The Ranger at the campground had told us that with only one day and two children these two are the tours we should take, and we believed her. Being so impressed with the previous ruins (and likely being delirious due to sweating 2x my body weight at the Cliff Palace), I was really excited to see Balcony House. I was kind of expecting it to be more of the same. I should have been paying better attention to the Ranger when she was explaining the ins and outs of Balcony house.
You start the tour by climbing down a really long and old metal staircase (read: steep), followed by a winding trail down alongside the cliff. Suddenly, out of nowhere there’s this huge ladder in front of you. Double wide, maybe 30+ feet high.

I am not afraid of heights, but the Ranger was going on and on about how SOME people are. And how SOME people will be freaking out the whole time they’re climbing so for THEIR sake please just keep climbing without stopping. For God’s sake DON’T LOOK BACK, and if you fall you’re taking out everyone below you, so please…. just keep climbing! For the sake of all that is good, do not stop, do not take photographs, do not, do not, do not!! She shook the ladder to show all those scaredy cats that the ladder wasn’t going anywhere, and there was nothing to fear. Then she went up first. I’m only guessing, but I figured it was so that those people falling didn’t take her out. As luck would have it, we were at the back of the pack and the last to go up. The closer the time came for me to start climbing, the more freakish I got about actually doing it. I sent the kids up side by side with my husband and I following below. I had quickly developed an on the spot irrational fear that one of them would probably fall, and I wanted to be there to break my neck attempting to catch them. Uh huh. As I went up the ladder, I started to really feel stress and anxiety like I’ve never experienced before. With each rung that I climbed, my chest got tighter and my breathing more shallow and my heartbeat faster. My grip on the rungs got tighter and tighter, but I thought it was certain that I was about to fall backwards off of it, and it took some SERIOUS will power to prevent me from looking back, even though I remembered the Ranger telling us not to. I was COMPELLED to look down!
As a side note, I have to tell you that at home I have absolutely no problem with ladders, whatsoever. I climb up and down and walk on the roof of our house without batting an eye. I think that my irrational fears have more to do with my children, so I will be blaming them going forward.
When I arrived at the top, I felt like I was about to pass out. I was so flipping relieved and shocked that we had all made it to the top (without anyone falling off backwards, Three Stooges style) I nearly hugged the Ranger. Then I started laughing at myself while I told her that I had listened to her little ladder speech, confident that she was talking about OTHER PEOPLE. I ended up being THAT PERSON she was talking about. IT WAS ME! No one was more surprised than I was. Well, aside from my poor suffering husband who had to talk me up the fricking ladder, or possibly my kids who wanted to know why I was so ghostly white when I got to the top. The Ranger was kind of all “yeah, crazy lady… I told you it was scary, lets just keep it moving.” Damn.
***I don’t want to spoil this for anyone, but if you are phobic you may want to consider a different tour. In addition to the dizzying initial ladder, there is also a very small space that you have to crawl through that could trigger some claustrophobia, there is a serious drop, er, I mean, view without walls to hold you back if you’re afraid of heights, and don’t even get me started on the teeny, tiny little footholds in the slick rock after the LAST ladder… yeah, the chicken wire with the chain made me feel SOOOOO much better. And yes, on that last ladder I totally DID look down. Take the Ranger’s word: just don’t.***
The ruins themselves were beautiful. A lot of the original timbers were still in existence, which I found really fascinating. We were able to get more of an up close and personal look at everything than at Cliff Palace because it was all one level. There weren’t really any areas that you couldn’t see. They have a strict do not enter policy on the rooms, which unfortunately my son found out the hard way (because of his stupid mother who wanted a picture). The balcony itself was really unbelievable. The natural spring within the cave was still producing water, 700+ years later! Not that I would want to have to drink it, but cool nonetheless.

If you look really closely you can see the hand print of an Ancestral Puebloan on the cave wall. That’s right, make nicey with the Rangers, people! I’m tellin’ ya, they really give up the goods!

While the Ranger was telling people about the kiva, she said that anyone who had taken a previous tour and didn’t want to listen to the kiva speech could feel free to explore around on their own (thus the misunderstanding with the whole rooms are off-limits thing). After I got my son in trouble, my kids and I sat on some stones to take in the view and lick our wounds. All of a sudden we spotted a hummingbird zipping around in the Balcony House. We were tracking it, and it flew right up to us and hovered first in front of my sons and then in front of my daughters face! It was that one perfect moment in between the ladders.
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